Saturday, 20 September 2014

Les Belles et la bête 1967

Left to right: two mini dresses in black velour with iridescent print, softly gathered under yoke, by Pierre Cardin. Green, purple and pink crepe blouson style dresses with top stitched detailing and sundress necklines, by Patou.

                                                            Red crepe dress by Dior.

Silver, pleated lurex gauze dress with asymmetrical hemline decorated in crystal beading, by Pierre Cardin.

          Golden yellow dress with front ruching detail and bead trimmed asymmetrical hem, by Cardin. 

                       Tailored suit, with narrow fitting ankle length skirt in wool crepe, by Lanvin. 

                                                                IMAGE CREDITS
        All images scanned by Sweet Jane from ELLE magazine 31st August 1967. Photographer uncredited.

Wednesday, 3 September 2014

In Anticipation of The Biba Years 1963-1975

Very much looking forward to viewing The Biba Years 1963-1975 by Barbara Hulanicki and Martin Pel (published on September 1st). I would imagine that Biba enthusiasts everywhere have been counting down the days to the release date over the summer, ever since the first glimpse of that glorious cover and description of the content appeared on the V&A Publishing website earlier this year! Comprising of 240 pages, it promises to feature a wealth of previously unpublished material (including early fashion illustrations), archival images, extensive garment photography, and full colour reproductions of all six of the original Biba mail order catalogues, as well as many personal insights from the designer and her contemporaries. While I await the arrival of my own copy, i've been busying myself by reading Barbara's autobiography (again) and leafing through my collection of Biba editorials, I'd almost forgotten that I had this issue of  The Observer from 1969 which featured the Biba couture range, it seems as good a time as any to post it here.

                                          HAUTE COUTURE GOES MAIL ORDER
                                                      HOW TO GET A BIBA OUTFIT BY POST

Write to Biba Ltd, 19 Kensington Church Street, London W8, for a special order form. With it you will get a very detailed measurement chart to complete. It is vital, writes Liz Smith, that you are measured accurately (get a competent person to do it for you). Then send off the order form with £15 deposit. You will be sent a toile of the garment made to your measurements, together with a cutting of the fabric. Alterations can be made on the toile, and it's up to you to ensure it fits exactly the way you want. You will be sent a special chart on which to note any alterations. Finally, send back the approved toile together with the balance of the price, and the dress, suit or coat will be made up for you in the couture fabric. Each garment will be cut to individual measurements out of couture cloth, with perfect buttonholes, hand sewn zips and linings of silk.

Chocolate brown whipcord trousers and shapely cardigan jacket, 60gn. Cream crepe-de-chine blouse with stock tied softly at the neck, 25gn. Silver rings, 30s. each; fake diamond ring, 30s. Plummy brown snakeskin hat, 25gn. Boots 16gn. from the Chelsea Cobbler. Hair by Valerie, at Cheveux, Abingdon Road, W8.

Vanilla cape leather coat, wonderfully soft and supple, which buttons up to a high banded collar, with matching aviator's helmet tied under the chin. Coat, 120 gn.; helmet, without veil, 14gn.; gloves, 59s. 6d., by Nerry from Harrrod's, Knightsbridge, SW1

Spangled dress, winking and glinting all over, made of black and silver sequins backed on nest crepe, spiraling every inch of the way, shaping you more prettily than ever before, 100gn. Matching head-hugging hat 10gn. without veiling. Silver snake rings, 30s, each.

Long dress in burnt orange pure silk satin backed crepe, best of it's kind, without ornament except for some tiny buttons up the sleeve, and a detachable hooded cowl, 110 gn. Platform-soled boots, 16 gn., from the Chelsea Cobbler.

                                                               IMAGE CREDITS
All images & original text scanned by Sweet Jane from The Observer magazine, 19th January, 1969. Original editorial by Liz Smith, all photographs by Helmut Newton. *Except for The Biba Years 1963-1975 cover which is courtesy of V&A Publications.

                  Order yourself a copy of The Biba Years 1963-1975 from the V&A online shop here.

                                               Preview The Biba Years 1963-1975 here.

Saturday, 30 August 2014

Twiggy & The Dandy Look - 1967

The look straight ahead is the great dandy look - a long, long look at jackets, long but lean and curvy, trousers sleek and straight. Add a flash of frippery, arrogant accessories, soft, short waved curls. Suave striped suit, above, fine and dandy white and maroon on deep blue; long lean frock coat with dark velvet collar and cuffs. Youngset by Alexon, 15 gns, D.H. Evans; Plummers, Guildford; Schofields, Leeds.

Devastating black wool suit, double breasted, above. Dinner jacket dandy look, dazzlingly simple, Mary Quant's Ginger Group, 16½ gns, at Miss Selfridge; Rackhams, Birmingham; The Birdcage, Cambridge. All jewellery from The Golden Past, Brook St. Shoes, 6½ gns, Mondaine, Canes, 17gns, Swaine, Adeney, Brigg. Hair by Roger of Vidal Sassoon. 

Princely Prince of Wales check suit, sleek long jacket with double butons, no back vent but plenty of fit. Handsome cuffed trousers, high-buttoned waistcoat. By Paul Babb and Pamela Procter for Twiggy, 14 gns, Fifth Avenue, King's Road; Fraser Sons, Glasgow; Edwin Jones, Southhampton, Benson & Hedges cigar.

Efficient and dashing pinstripe dandy suit. Wall Street overtones on gangster flare. Charcoal and white with surprise yellow jersey back to neat waistcoat. Crepe shirt, Mary Quant's Ginger Group, jacket, 11gns, trousers, 4½gns, waistcoat, 5gns, shirt, 4gns, Bazaar; Rackhams, Birmingham. Black felt hat, £5  18s, 6d, Herbert Johnson, Ties, 21s, Foale & Tuffin, Boots, £7 19s, 6d, Ravel.

                                                              IMAGE CREDITS
All images & original text scanned by Sweet Jane from VOGUE September 15 1967. All photographs by Helmut Newton

Saturday, 23 August 2014

Back To School 1967

As British designer Roger Nelson sees it, black is new and now! Capecatch, this page, with bold black braid adding coals to red wool melton. About $40.

Left to right: Two blacks, a long pull and pleated skirt, gad about with a white blouse. Of wool crepe; each about $20. Wild tie-work in silk marks a dress of black wool crepe. It's about $40. Long jacket or short coat - you decide - in a frame of red braid. About $40. Peep-out skirt and turtle pull, each about $15. Red melton jacket, about $55. Bermuda pants about $17. The black sweater, about $15. All of wool. Fashions by Roger Nelson Ltd.

                                                                IMAGE CREDITS
           All images & original text scanned by Sweet Jane from SEVENTEEN magazine September 1967.

Thursday, 21 August 2014

Start Wearing The Pants...1966


                                                   IMAGE CREDITS
                                Image scanned by Sweet Jane from RAVE magazine, April 1966.

Monday, 18 August 2014

Score with the Co-ordinated Look 1966

Cover girl Lynda Gabelle wears Kooky dress for kicking in:  Blue and white striped shirt dress, zipped all the way from hip-bone to collar-bone. Bermuda shorts and shiny scarlet patent belt by Sybil Zelker at Londonis, £5 19s 6d. Striped plastic visor, by post from Palisades, 25s. Red denim peep-toes by Leonards, 22s 11d.

Snappy sailor separates. Top Left: "Ensign" blue skirt with white belt, 59s 6d. "Eight Bells" blue and white drill blouse, 3½ gns. Ship-shape red drill pants and matching vest top, above, with embroidered anchor. "Midships" pants, 99s 6d., "Admiral" vest top, 3gns., all by Ginger Group. Yellow square sunspecs by Correna, 22s. 6d.

LEFT: Anything-Goes and go-with-everything hip-skirt and print crepon shirt by Neatawear. Skirt 45s., Shirt 59s. 11d., pink lacy stockings by Lewis Separates, 9s 11d. Pink suede sling-back shoes, Holmes, 79s. 11d. Purple beret by Kangol, 8s. 1d. Bluey silk cravat by Ascher, 9s, 6d. Funny half-specs by Pacesetters, 35s. RIGHT: Pavement-Prancing outfit. Jacket 'n' skirt in lilac (there are also matching hip-slung pants). Jacket 70s. 11d., skirt 45s., pants 69s., 11d. all by Neatawear. Purple square sunspecs by Correna, 22s. 6d. Roberta's multi-coloured striped shoes, 4gns,; purpley-printed cotton shoulder bag by Dany Brien, 45s. Cotton skinny by Lewis Separates, 14s. 11d.

LEFT: Party-Pretty lilac shirt, 49s. 11d., lilac and blue printed lacy cotton pants, both bu Neatawear, 79s. 11d. Blue chiffony scarf by Aldbrook, 13s. 11d. Hooped ear-rings by Frances Ross, 15s. Striped leather flatties (at Roma and Roberta boutiques, who both run postal service), in several combinations, 4gns. RIGHT: Jamboree jumpsuit. Same lilac and blue lacy cotton pants, this time teamed up with matching vest-shaped top, 49s. 11d., both from Neatawear, 69s. 11d., for different part looks. Turquoise hooped ear-rings by Jewelcraft, 7s. 6d. Turquoise suede shoes, Holmes, 79s. 11d.

                                                             IMAGE CREDITS
All images and original text scanned by Sweet Jane from PETTICOAT magazine 7th may 1966. Photographs by Jimmy Wormser.

Wednesday, 13 August 2014

The New Look 1967

Products Used: Ultralucent Highlight with Blue Mist powder eye shadow, mixed to give silver shadow, 9s. 6d. and 5s. 7d. Blue and brown eye pencils, 3s. 6d. each. Fashion lashes, 18s. 6d. Blue cake mascara, 3s. "Peach Meringue" frosting  and "Crushed Coral" lipsticks 5s. and 10d. each. All products by Max Factor. 

                                                              IMAGE CREDIT
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from RAVE magazine, February, 1967. Hair by Barry Kibble, Make-up by John Hartley for Max Factor. Original beauty editorial by Lee.