Set-the scene ideas by 'Mary Farrin', Sleek, simple lines. Imaginative colours. (Left) Cuddle-soft angora in sugar-almond shades or black, edged with white £11 19s. 6d. (Right) Smooth wool. Grounds of orange, turquoise, beige, green, mustard or navy £9 17s 6d.
IMAGE CREDIT Image scanned by Sweet Jane from Vogue September 1967
It isn't an integral part of every woman's nature to be a homemaker, in the way that not every woman yearns to be a mother. It gives more pleasure to some people to live in a state of immaculate perfection without much sign of human intrusion. The anguish that some women feel at the sight of a speck of dust is also shared by more men than people realise. The beauty of stainless steel floor tiles, glass-topped tables and silver-papered walls might not withstand the curiosity of children and are certainly not practical for young working girls, since objects of beauty need constant cleaning, care and attenton. This is more the setting of a career woman with hired help./Molly Parkin
Left: Lamé shirtwaister dress by Bagatel, 46 gns. Shoes by Terry de havilland, 5½ gns. Watch ring and watch bracelet by Jill Waddington, 10 gns and £30. Silver rings by Carol Russell, 18 gns each; silver rings by Helga Zahn, from £10 each. Right: Trouser suit by Aqua Sprite, 36 gns. Shoes by Terry de Havilland, 5½ gns. Silver necklace and bracelet by Helga Zahn, £90 and £60. Back wall: covered in aluminium foil, from 2s 11d per roll, wall clock sprayed silver by Jill Waddington. Side wall: Vacuum-moulded Melinex panels 24 in" square by Julie Hodgess, approximately 7s 6d each. Floor: 4 in" square stainless steel tiles by Twentieth Century Tiles Ltd, £1 per sq ft. On the floor: lace-up shoes by David Murray at Medway Bagagerie, £4 9s 11d. Brocade and diamanté mule at Charles Jourdan, 17½ gns. Brocade and diamanté shoe at Charles Jourdan, 25 gns. Silver carrier bag by Susan Gibson, 6 gns.
Table: by William Plunkett Ltd, £47 9s. On the table: perspex telephone from Plessey Telecommunications Group. Glass containers and chemical apparatus from The Scientific Glassblowing Co Ltd. Jewellery by Carol Russell.
Perspex telephone from Plessey Telecommunications Group.
Chaise longue: designed by Carol Russell, covered in printed PVC designed by Julie Hodgess, £25, made to order. On the chaise longue: see-through clock by Jill Waddington, 7gns. Handbag by Sally Jess, £4 19s 11d. Glass dish, 14s 8d, containing ball bearings at Buck & Ryan, from 11s per dozen. Glass teapot at Heal's, £3 2s 6d. Silver coat by Karen Mœller, 7gns, Dome-shaped perspex table lamp designed by John Wright and Jean Schofield, £28 10s. IMAGE CREDITS All images & text scanned by Sweet Jane from an original editorial by Molly Parkin for NOVA, September 1966. Photographs by Duffy.
Left to right: two mini dresses in black velour with iridescent print, softly gathered under yoke, by Pierre Cardin. Green, purple and pink crepe blouson style dresses with top stitched detailing and sundress necklines, by Patou.
Red crepe dress by Dior.
Silver, pleated lurex gauze dress with asymmetrical hemline decorated in crystal beading, by Pierre Cardin.
Golden yellow dress with front ruching detail and bead trimmed asymmetrical hem, by Cardin.
Tailored suit, with narrow fitting ankle length skirt in wool crepe, by Lanvin.
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from ELLE magazine 31st August 1967. Photographer uncredited.
Very much looking forward to viewing The Biba Years 1963-1975 by Barbara Hulanicki and Martin Pel (published on September 1st). I would imagine that Biba enthusiasts everywhere have been counting down the days to the release date over the summer, ever since the first glimpse of that glorious cover and description of the content appeared on the V&A Publishing website earlier this year! Comprising of 240 pages, it promises to feature a wealth of previously unpublished material (including early fashion illustrations), archival images, extensive garment photography, and full colour reproductions of all six of the original Biba mail order catalogues, as well as many personal insights from the designer and her contemporaries. While I await the arrival of my own copy, i've been busying myself by reading Barbara's autobiography (again) and leafing through my collection of Biba editorials, I'd almost forgotten that I had this issue of The Observer from 1969 which featured the Biba couture range, it seems as good a time as any to post it here.
HAUTE COUTURE GOES MAIL ORDER HOW TO GET A BIBA OUTFIT BY POST Write to Biba Ltd, 19 Kensington Church Street, London W8, for a special order form. With it you will get a very detailed measurement chart to complete. It is vital, writes Liz Smith, that you are measured accurately (get a competent person to do it for you). Then send off the order form with £15 deposit. You will be sent a toile of the garment made to your measurements, together with a cutting of the fabric. Alterations can be made on the toile, and it's up to you to ensure it fits exactly the way you want. You will be sent a special chart on which to note any alterations. Finally, send back the approved toile together with the balance of the price, and the dress, suit or coat will be made up for you in the couture fabric. Each garment will be cut to individual measurements out of couture cloth, with perfect buttonholes, hand sewn zips and linings of silk.
Chocolate brown whipcord trousers and shapely cardigan jacket, 60gn. Cream crepe-de-chine blouse with stock tied softly at the neck, 25gn. Silver rings, 30s. each; fake diamond ring, 30s. Plummy brown snakeskin hat, 25gn. Boots 16gn. from the Chelsea Cobbler. Hair by Valerie, at Cheveux, Abingdon Road, W8.
Vanilla cape leather coat, wonderfully soft and supple, which buttons up to a high banded collar, with matching aviator's helmet tied under the chin. Coat, 120 gn.; helmet, without veil, 14gn.; gloves, 59s. 6d., by Nerry from Harrrod's, Knightsbridge, SW1
Spangled dress, winking and glinting all over, made of black and silver sequins backed on nest crepe, spiraling every inch of the way, shaping you more prettily than ever before, 100gn. Matching head-hugging hat 10gn. without veiling. Silver snake rings, 30s, each.
Long dress in burnt orange pure silk satin backed crepe, best of it's kind, without ornament except for some tiny buttons up the sleeve, and a detachable hooded cowl, 110 gn. Platform-soled boots, 16 gn., from the Chelsea Cobbler.
All images & original text scanned by Sweet Jane from The Observer magazine, 19th January, 1969. Original editorial by Liz Smith, all photographs by Helmut Newton. *Except for The Biba Years 1963-1975 cover which is courtesy of V&A Publications.
Order yourself a copy of The Biba Years 1963-1975 from the V&A online shop here.
The look straight ahead is the great dandy look - a long, long look at jackets, long but lean and curvy, trousers sleek and straight. Add a flash of frippery, arrogant accessories, soft, short waved curls. Suave striped suit, above, fine and dandy white and maroon on deep blue; long lean frock coat with dark velvet collar and cuffs. Youngset by Alexon, 15 gns, D.H. Evans; Plummers, Guildford; Schofields, Leeds.
Devastating black wool suit, double breasted, above. Dinner jacket dandy look, dazzlingly simple, Mary Quant's Ginger Group, 16½ gns, at Miss Selfridge; Rackhams, Birmingham; The Birdcage, Cambridge. All jewellery from The Golden Past, Brook St. Shoes, 6½ gns, Mondaine, Canes, 17gns, Swaine, Adeney, Brigg. Hair by Roger of Vidal Sassoon.
Princely Prince of Wales check suit, sleek long jacket with double butons, no back vent but plenty of fit. Handsome cuffed trousers, high-buttoned waistcoat. By Paul Babb and Pamela Procter for Twiggy, 14 gns, Fifth Avenue, King's Road; Fraser Sons, Glasgow; Edwin Jones, Southhampton, Benson & Hedges cigar.
Efficient and dashing pinstripe dandy suit. Wall Street overtones on gangster flare. Charcoal and white with surprise yellow jersey back to neat waistcoat. Crepe shirt, Mary Quant's Ginger Group, jacket, 11gns, trousers, 4½gns, waistcoat, 5gns, shirt, 4gns, Bazaar; Rackhams, Birmingham. Black felt hat, £5 18s, 6d, Herbert Johnson, Ties, 21s, Foale & Tuffin, Boots, £7 19s, 6d, Ravel.
All images & original text scanned by Sweet Jane from VOGUE September 15 1967. All photographs by Helmut Newton
As British designer Roger Nelson sees it, black is new and now! Capecatch, this page, with bold black braid adding coals to red wool melton. About $40.
Left to right: Two blacks, a long pull and pleated skirt, gad about with a white blouse. Of wool crepe; each about $20. Wild tie-work in silk marks a dress of black wool crepe. It's about $40. Long jacket or short coat - you decide - in a frame of red braid. About $40. Peep-out skirt and turtle pull, each about $15. Red melton jacket, about $55. Bermuda pants about $17. The black sweater, about $15. All of wool. Fashions by Roger Nelson Ltd.
All images & original text scanned by Sweet Jane from SEVENTEEN magazine September 1967.