Saturday, 22 November 2014

Looking For Laughs 1967

                                                      LOOKING FOR LAUGHS
Confront a modern manufacturer with square pegs and round holes, or vice versa, and he'll make a pair of sunglasses out of these. There was a time when sunglasses were worn only to cut glare and avoid squint lines, but then youth took over. Ever since, "shades" have been as much to look at as through, and designing females buy them less for shielding eyes than for turning heads. This summer's glasses such as those shown above from Debs $4) accelerate the trend-not just attention getting but in many instances funny." It's gotten so," says one manufacturer, "we could sell them even without lenses."

      Eyes shaped like a Halloween mask are created with a plastic overlay on the lenses (Foster Grant $5).

Other sunglasses resemble anything from insect eyes to ice cream parlor awnings. Above, striped fabric covers top half of the lenses, lower half is shadowed by a canopy (Renauld, $9).

                        Above, Dog-bone shaped pair has border of Paisley print (Renauld, $8).

                                                              IMAGE CREDITS
All images & original text scanned by Sweet Jane from LIFE 16 June 1967. Photographs by Charles P Mills & Lee Boultin

Saturday, 1 November 2014

Sex, Sense And Nonsense: Felicity Green On The '60s Fashion Scene

A few scans from Sex, Sense And Nonsense which hit the shelves a couple of days ago (pubilshed on the 29th of October to be precise). It contains an amazing collection of archival images and information from the fashion pages of the Daily Mirror while it was under the direction of pioneering journalist and Fleet Street legend Felicity Green during one of the most prolific and innovative decades in design, which makes it an invaluable document of just about every major new trend and look exactly as it was featured in the newspaper at the time! Among others, you can expect to find the work of Mary Quant, Andre Courrèges, Ossie Clark, Emmanuelle Khan, John Bates, Rudi Gernreich, The Fool and Barbara Hulanicki (as both illustrator and designer). 

It was of course Felicity Green who gave the fledgling Biba Postal Boutique its first big break into the fashion arena via the now infamous Daily Mirror feature in may of 1964, which resulted in the production of 17,000 pink gingham Biba dresses (otherwise known as 'the dress that started it all')...and the rest as they say is history! I can't recommend the book highly enough, this brief preview barely does it justice ( there are 192 pages in total!) is without a doubt a 'must have!' Purchase details & further information can be found through the links at the end of the page.

                                                              IMAGE CREDITS  
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from Sex, Sense and Nonsense: Felicity Green On The '60s Fashion Scene, published by ACC Editions.

                                                Read about Felicity Green's Career here.
                         Listen to an interview with  Felicity Green on Desert Island Discs here
     See Felicity Green in conversation with Eve Pollard on Tuesday the 4th of November here.
  Purchase & preview a copy of Sex, Sense And Nonsense: Felicity Green On The '60s Fashion Scene here. 


Saturday, 18 October 2014

Hit Knits - Mary Farrin 1967

Set-the scene ideas by 'Mary Farrin', Sleek, simple lines. Imaginative colours. (Left) Cuddle-soft angora in sugar-almond shades or black, edged with white £11 19s. 6d. (Right) Smooth wool. Grounds of orange, turquoise, beige, green, mustard or navy £9 17s 6d. 

                                                           IMAGE CREDIT
                               Image scanned by Sweet Jane from Vogue September 1967

Saturday, 11 October 2014

Beauty Routine ..Milton Glaser 1967

                                                                IMAGE CREDIT
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from Seventeen magazine September 1967. Original illustrations by Milton Glaser.

Sunday, 28 September 2014

The Career Woman - Nova 1966

It isn't an integral part of every woman's nature to be a homemaker, in the way that not every woman yearns to be a mother. It gives more pleasure to some people to live in a state of immaculate perfection without much sign of human intrusion. The anguish that some women feel at the sight of a speck of dust is also shared by more men than people realise. The beauty of stainless steel floor tiles, glass-topped tables and silver-papered walls might not withstand the curiosity of children and are certainly not practical for young working girls, since objects of beauty need constant cleaning, care and attenton. This is more the setting of a career woman with hired help./Molly Parkin

Left: Lamé shirtwaister dress by Bagatel, 46 gns. Shoes by Terry de havilland, 5½ gns. Watch ring and watch bracelet by Jill Waddington, 10 gns and £30. Silver rings by Carol Russell, 18 gns each; silver rings by Helga Zahn, from £10 each.  Right: Trouser suit by Aqua Sprite, 36 gns. Shoes by Terry de Havilland, 5½ gns. Silver necklace and bracelet by Helga Zahn, £90 and £60.  Back wall: covered in aluminium foil, from 2s 11d per roll, wall clock sprayed silver by Jill Waddington. Side wall: Vacuum-moulded Melinex panels 24 in" square by Julie Hodgess, approximately 7s 6d each. Floor: 4 in" square stainless steel tiles by Twentieth Century Tiles Ltd, £1 per sq ft. On the floor: lace-up shoes by David Murray at Medway Bagagerie, £4 9s 11d. Brocade and diamanté mule at Charles Jourdan, 17½ gns. Brocade and diamanté shoe at Charles Jourdan, 25 gns.  Silver carrier bag by Susan Gibson, 6 gns.

Table: by William Plunkett  Ltd, £47 9s. On the table: perspex telephone from Plessey Telecommunications Group. Glass containers and chemical apparatus from The Scientific Glassblowing Co Ltd. Jewellery by Carol Russell.

Perspex telephone from Plessey Telecommunications Group.

Chaise longue: designed by Carol Russell, covered in printed PVC designed by Julie Hodgess, £25, made to order. On the chaise longue: see-through clock by Jill Waddington, 7gns. Handbag by Sally Jess, £4 19s 11d. Glass dish, 14s 8d, containing ball bearings at Buck & Ryan, from 11s per dozen. Glass teapot at Heal's, £3 2s 6d. Silver coat by Karen Mœller, 7gns, Dome-shaped perspex table lamp designed by John Wright and Jean Schofield, £28 10s.

                                                              IMAGE CREDITS
All images & text scanned by Sweet Jane from an original editorial by Molly Parkin for NOVA, September 1966. Photographs by Duffy. 

Saturday, 20 September 2014

Les Belles et la bête 1967

Left to right: two mini dresses in black velour with iridescent print, softly gathered under yoke, by Pierre Cardin. Green, purple and pink crepe blouson style dresses with top stitched detailing and sundress necklines, by Patou.

                                                            Red crepe dress by Dior.

Silver, pleated lurex gauze dress with asymmetrical hemline decorated in crystal beading, by Pierre Cardin.

          Golden yellow dress with front ruching detail and bead trimmed asymmetrical hem, by Cardin. 

                       Tailored suit, with narrow fitting ankle length skirt in wool crepe, by Lanvin. 

                                                                IMAGE CREDITS
        All images scanned by Sweet Jane from ELLE magazine 31st August 1967. Photographer uncredited.

Wednesday, 3 September 2014

In Anticipation of The Biba Years 1963-1975

Very much looking forward to viewing The Biba Years 1963-1975 by Barbara Hulanicki and Martin Pel (published on September 1st). I would imagine that Biba enthusiasts everywhere have been counting down the days to the release date over the summer, ever since the first glimpse of that glorious cover and description of the content appeared on the V&A Publishing website earlier this year! Comprising of 240 pages, it promises to feature a wealth of previously unpublished material including early fashion illustrations, archival images, extensive garment photography and full colour reproductions of all six of the original Biba mail order catalogues, as well as many personal insights from the designer and her contemporaries. While I await the arrival of my own copy, i've been busying myself by reading Barbara's autobiography (again) and leafing through my collection of Biba editorials, I'd almost forgotten that I had this issue of  The Observer from 1969 which featured the Biba couture range, it seems as good a time as any to post it here.

                                          HAUTE COUTURE GOES MAIL ORDER
                                                      HOW TO GET A BIBA OUTFIT BY POST

Write to Biba Ltd, 19 Kensington Church Street, London W8, for a special order form. With it you will get a very detailed measurement chart to complete. It is vital, writes Liz Smith, that you are measured accurately (get a competent person to do it for you). Then send off the order form with £15 deposit. You will be sent a toile of the garment made to your measurements, together with a cutting of the fabric. Alterations can be made on the toile, and it's up to you to ensure it fits exactly the way you want. You will be sent a special chart on which to note any alterations. Finally, send back the approved toile together with the balance of the price, and the dress, suit or coat will be made up for you in the couture fabric. Each garment will be cut to individual measurements out of couture cloth, with perfect buttonholes, hand sewn zips and linings of silk.

Chocolate brown whipcord trousers and shapely cardigan jacket, 60gn. Cream crepe-de-chine blouse with stock tied softly at the neck, 25gn. Silver rings, 30s. each; fake diamond ring, 30s. Plummy brown snakeskin hat, 25gn. Boots 16gn. from the Chelsea Cobbler. Hair by Valerie, at Cheveux, Abingdon Road, W8.

Vanilla cape leather coat, wonderfully soft and supple, which buttons up to a high banded collar, with matching aviator's helmet tied under the chin. Coat, 120 gn.; helmet, without veil, 14gn.; gloves, 59s. 6d., by Nerry from Harrrod's, Knightsbridge, SW1

Spangled dress, winking and glinting all over, made of black and silver sequins backed on nest crepe, spiraling every inch of the way, shaping you more prettily than ever before, 100gn. Matching head-hugging hat 10gn. without veiling. Silver snake rings, 30s, each.

Long dress in burnt orange pure silk satin backed crepe, best of it's kind, without ornament except for some tiny buttons up the sleeve, and a detachable hooded cowl, 110 gn. Platform-soled boots, 16 gn., from the Chelsea Cobbler.

                                                               IMAGE CREDITS
All images & original text scanned by Sweet Jane from The Observer magazine, 19th January, 1969. Original editorial by Liz Smith, all photographs by Helmut Newton. *Except for The Biba Years 1963-1975 cover which is courtesy of V&A Publications.

                  Order yourself a copy of The Biba Years 1963-1975 from the V&A online shop here.

                                               Preview The Biba Years 1963-1975 here.