Sunday, 28 June 2015

Knickerbocker Glory 1970





Long flimsy tunic in moss crepe by Gordon King. The tunic has a round neck, buttons down the front and also on the sleeves. Matching gauchos and turban, Black only. Approximately 13gns. Also available are knickerbockers at approximately 5gns. Sizes 10, 12 and 14 at Miss Selfridge and Fifth Avenue (all branches). Fake snake belt 25s at Fenwicks, New Bond Street, London, W1. Long coloured beads 15s by Rosita. Thick black tights by Echo. Two-tone canvas and patent lace-up shoes 69s 11d at Bata. Photo: David Stanford.



By Mary Quant, "Calamity Jane" in knitted wool, satin blouse and short suede waistcoat. Sizes 5-13 (fits up to about a 14), in purple, pink, camel, black or RAF blue. Approximately £26 7s at Peter Robinson Top Shop, Oxford Circus; Harvey Nicholls; Debenham & Freebody Phase One, Elizabeth Grey, Oldham; Darling, Bath.



By Shelana, mauve and white Jacquard design jersey top with knickerbocker trousers. Tunic in pink or brown or white. Sizes 10-16. Approximately £11 at 2007, London and Manchester; Bentalls, Kingston, Worthing, and Ealing. Wet look cap by Edward Mann. Approximately 46s at Selfridges, Dickins & Jones (Rainwear departments). Long cream canvas boots, 6gns at Sasha. Leather mittens, approximately £3 15s at Pindisport shops. Puch ''camping'' bicycle, £32 9s. at E. Chamberlaine & Sons Ltd., 75 Kentish Town Road, London NW1. - Photo by Robin Laurance.



Long wide gauchos with matching fitted waistcoat in heavy linen. Various colours available. Sizes 8-14. Gauchos 38gns. Waistcoat £2 19s 6d. Printed silk blouse with wide sleeves and high collar £5 19s 6d. Leather shoulder bag £7 19s 6d. All at Biba, 124 Kensington High Street, London W8. Long canvas lace-up boots 7gns at Bata. - Photo by David Stanford.


By Gladrags, short battlejacket with poodle wool bodice, long jersey wool sleeves, belt and matching gauchos. Available in various colours. Sizes 7, 9, 11, 13, (fits up to 38in hip). Jacket approximately £8 10s. Gauchos £5 10s. (Not shown; plain jersey trousers 5½gns.; jersey trousers with the poodle wool design from the knee 6½gns.; zipped, belted bush jacket in poodle wool with jersey collar and cuffs £10 19s 6d; coat with jersey bodice, poodle wool skirt £17). At Harrods Way In; Debenham & Freebody Phase One; Image Bath; Ricky's, Beaconsfield; Bizarre, York. Black felt matador hat 48s. Wet-look gauntlet gloves in black or white. By Dents 30s. Both at Fenwicks, New Bond Street, London, W1. Lace-up grannie shoes 5gns. at Bata. Photo: David Stanford.


                                                                IMAGE CREDITS
All images & original text scanned by Sweet Jane from The Guardian, Tuesday August 18, 1970., with thanks to Kirstin Sibley. Photographs by Robin Laurance & David Stanford. 

Saturday, 20 June 2015

La Marche du Temps - Plexus 1969



Some more early illustrations by Polish born artist Wojtek Siudmak for Plexus, the bimonthly French erotic magazine which ran from April 1966 - June 1970. Siudmak became one of the many regular contributors to the publication towards the end of the decade after he had relocated to France, these particular graphics were used frequently in varying colourways throughout the later issues as an introduction to the news, reviews and event pages etc. You can view other examples of the artist's work for the magazine during this period via the labels at the end of the page.



                                                         Les voyages Plexus - Wojtek Siudmak                                                       



                   
                                                       La gazette du Palais - Wojtek Siudmak                                    



                                                       IMAGE CREDITS & LINKS
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from Plexus Issue No. 21 February 1969. All illustrations by Wojtek Siudmak. Visit the artist's website and online shop here.


Saturday, 13 June 2015

Mary Quant Cosmetics 1967















                                                                   IMAGE CREDITS
             All images scanned by Sweet Jane from Honey magazine Quant special supplement 1967.


Sunday, 7 June 2015

Les 15 Revolutions De La Mode 1968


I've had this copy of Les 15 Revolutions De La Mode by Gisèle D'Assailly in my collection since the mid 90s, it's an amazing large format/coffee table fashion history reference book originally published in 1968, comprising of 251 pages, each one heavily illustrated throughout. In keeping with the general timeline of this blog, apart from the first image on the cover,  these particular scans are all from the final chapter which concentrates on the 1960s, featuring the work of Cardin, Courrèges and Saint Laurent.


Le Collier Nouveau, Robe du soir by Paul Poiret, illustrated by George Lepape for Gazette du Bon Ton No.1, January 1914.



                                     Dress and coat by Pierre Cardin. (L'Officiel de la Couture 1966.) 
                               


                          Hiroko Matsumoto photographed in a white fur coat by Pierre Cardin, 1966.



                     Two piece ensemble by Andre Courrèges, 1967. Photograph by  Roland Bianchini.



                                         Ensemble by Yves Saint Laurent, (L'Officiel de la Couture.)

                                    
Dress by Pierre Cardin.



                                                       Over the knee leather boots by Cardin.
                                                        



                                                                       Coat by Pierre Cardin.


                                                 IMAGE CREDITS
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from Les 15 Revolutions De La Mode by Gisèle D'Assailly, 1968. Published by Hachette.

Wednesday, 20 May 2015

A Diamond is Forever 1969






                                                           IMAGE CREDITS & LINKS
Image scanned by Sweet Jane from Life Magazine, June 27th 1969. Original artwork by Jacqui Morgan for DeBeers Consolidated Mines Ltd. Discover more about the artist and her work here.

Wednesday, 13 May 2015

When Jupiter aligns with Mars...1970


         




                        When Jupiter Aligns With Mars, Will You Be Dressed For It?
You will be if you're wearing something you've made out of Klopman's new Zodiac prints. Go into your favourite shop and see the print that matches your sign, or the sign of someone you dig. And while you're there, pick up your FREE Zodiac poster. Don't just look for fabric. Look for Klopman.

                       KLOPMAN MILLS, INC., 1345 AVE OF THE AMERICAS, NY, NY, 10019, A DIVISION OF BURLINGTON INDUSTRIES.   


                                                            IMAGE CREDITS &  LINKS
Image scanned by Sweet Jane from Vogue International Sewing, August/September 1970. Illustration by N.Green. View an example of the original Klopman Zodiac fabric from 1970, currently available on Etsy here.

Saturday, 18 April 2015

Pop Fashion 1971


Apart from its inclusion in this original article from 1971, the Orphan Annie fashion label is completely unknown to me and there doesn't seem to be any other relevant information out there at the moment, none that I could find at any rate (so far), with the exception of a couple of vintage items that have turned up for sale on Ebay and Etsy over the past number of years, two of which were illustrated in this editorial.  Ritva on the other hand has been reasonably well documented online, therefore i've included some links to further reading about that label at the end of this post.


Lucky Strike and Ritz crackers sweaters are by Orphan Annie and sell for $15 at B.Altman "Eat at Joe's" was designed by Ritva of London and is sold here for $40 at Bloomingdale's.


                                   POP SWEATERS WITH A SENSE OF HUMOR
Just when it seems as though pop might be a dying art, up comes a crop of pop fashions, this time in sweater form. Some portray such things as a Ritz Cracker box. Or a Lucky Strike pack - before the  green went to war. Others might best be described as kitsch flavored fashions. Betsey Johnson, a young woman who has never taken her fashions too seriously, has loaded her designs for Alley Cat with scenic vistas that might have been lifted from the "art" in a Times Square souvenir shop. There are sweaters with trees, mountains, rivers and the lot. These can be found over at Betsey, Bunky & Nini, 237 East 53rd Street. A blue sweater with all that scenery thrown in goes for instance,  for $24.

                                                  A PERSONAL POP FASHION 
For great times, Giorgio di Sant'Angelo has done his own very personal kind of pop fashion. This amounts to a Red Baron kind of airplane (bright red on black) flying across all kinds of knitted things. Such as a long skirt, a flying jacket, a sweater. Lord & Taylor has these in their sixth floor Young New Yorkers sportswear, and the price is $40 for the skirt. $32 for the jacket and $24 for a sweater. In Bloomingdales sweater department on the third floor, Ritva of London advertises "Eat At Joes." Right on the front of a long-sleeved black wool sweater. This is $40. And as for those cracker boxes et al, well, they're being snapped up by young men and women alike. Made by a concern called Orphan Annie, presumably with the blessings of the Ritz and Lucky Strike people, they're about as "realistic" a package as a sweater can get. B. Altman has them on their sixth floor in either sleeveless or long-sleeved versions. The sleeveless is $11, while the long-sleeved is $15.
  




                                               ORPHAN ANNIE 'RITZ CRACKER' SWEATER, 1971.



           ORPHAN ANNIE 'RITZ CRACKER' SWEATER DETAIL, 1971.






                                                            ORPHAN ANNIE LABEL LOGO, 1971.




SLEEVELESS VARIATION OF THE ORPHAN ANNIE 'LUCKY STRIKE' SWEATER FEATURED IN THE NY TIMES ARTICLE, 1971.




An original RITVA MAN 'FLASH FEARLESS' sweater designed by Mike Ross (1975) currently for sale here on Etsy.


                                                                  IMAGE CREDITS
Pop sweater illustration by Anne-Marie Barden for an original article by Mary Anne Crenshaw scanned by Sweet Jane from The New York Times, November 18th, 1971. Photo (1)&(4) Orphan Annie Ritz/Lucky Strike sweaters courtesy of expired listings Ebay. Photo (2)&(3) Orphan Annie sweater detail and logo courtesy of brinkdwellers on Etsy. Ritva Man sweater image courtesy of elliemayhems Etsy. 

                                                                                LINKS
                                           View the V&A Mike Ross RITVA MAN collection here.
                                         The RITVA Knitwear Collection 1966-1978 on Flickr here.
  View some more examples and read about the history of the RITVA label on the Wary Meyers blog here.