Wednesday, 6 July 2016

Good Strong Coffee 1968

A kaleidoscopic 1968 cinema short produced by the advertising agency Batten, Barton, Durstine & Osborn advocating the use of coffee as a stimulant! The film features some fantastic Swinging London locations, psychedelic visuals and 'beautiful people' wearing beautiful clothing (I'm pretty sure I spy an Ossie Clark outfit...or two). Intriguingly, it doesn't seem to promote any specific brand in particular but it is quite possibly the best advert for the stuff that i've seen in a while...not that I needed too much persuading in the first place! Watch Good Strong Coffee (1968) in its entirety on the BFI's excellent Other Grooves collection here.

                                                   IMAGE CREDITS
All screen shots by Sweet Jane from Good Strong Coffee (1968) by Batten, Barton, Durstine & Osborn courtesy of the BFI's Other Grooves,models/actors uncredited. Visit the BBDO advertising agency's website here, Check out the BFI's Other Grooves entire Collection here. View some images from I'll Never forget What's isname (1967) starring Oliver Reed as a disillusioned London advertising executive who revolts against his career and escapes into Swinging London on one of my previous posts here, A Brief History of Psychedelic Light Shows on the excellent Liquid Light Lab blog curated by Steve Pavlovsky here. You'll find some Ossie Clark designs here & also hereWe need to talk about caffeine, great coffee scenes in movies here and finally Watch Coffee and Cigarettes (2004) by Jim Jarmusch here

Sunday, 19 June 2016

Swop Shop 1970

                                                                        SWOP SHOP
                                    FASHION IS FOR HIM AND HER

I think a lot of us can identify with this one, most couples have probably borrowed an item or two from each others wardrobe at some point in a relationship or failing that, will have at least shopped for ourselves in the clothing departments of the opposite sex on occasion..either way, I love these illustrations from The Boyfriend book (1970). But what really interests me about them is the illustrator's name! It's signed as Brocklehurst (the signature runs vertically up along the girl's right trouser leg's pretty small, so i've enlarged it in the third scan for your perusal)...because the only artist that I am familiar with who worked under that name is Jo Brocklehurst - most widely acclaimed as chronicler of subcultures and nightclub life in the 70s & 1980s. Anyone who is aware of her output from that period will know that the work is completely different to what you see here, it's much rawer and in a similar vein to that of Egon Schiele. I can actually remember the first time that ever I saw it, I was still in school at that stage, but from one singular image I knew instantly that whoever this person was they definitely had their finger on the pulse of life outside the mainstream and immediately wrote the name on the inside of my art folder for future reference (I still have it btw, see final photograph). If you google search Jo Brocklehurst online, the only images which regularly show up are the drawings from the punk & club scene crowd of the 1980s even though she had a long career ever since graduating from art college as a teenager,  first working as a commercial artist before moving into fashion illustration & then lecturing later in life, while continuing to work on personal projects throughout. According to her close friend and muse Isabelle Bricknall, she had in fact documented the emerging bohemian/counter culture scene in London as far back as the 1960s and had been drawing people in clubs since the 1950s before then, i've never actually seen examples of any of it, these illustrations from 1970 are the earliest representation of her 'other' work that I am personally aware of to date. Apparently, she was in the process of curating a museum of her own work at her home in Westbere Road towards the end of her life, but since her death in 2006 the ownership of much of it has been the subject of an ongoing legal dispute and the rest are scattered amongst friends. As a prolific artist who worked constantly over a 50 year period, documenting subculture from within the epicentre of each scene as it was actually happening from decade to decade, I think this unknown work sounds like it has the makings of a really interesting retrospective on many levels, now more so than ever before, much has changed over the past ten years as we increasingly move further & further away from the uniqueness of these eras in all respects with each passing day via the impact of the internet & globalisation. While researching material for this post, the same information turned  up time and time again, she was a very private individual judging by any of the accounts given, most were obituaries written shortly after her death with the exception of an in depth article by Tom Jenkins for Vice UK last year (see links), however, I decided to have one last look for current news articles and i'm pleased to say that i've found one, there is a forthcoming exhibition at The Gallery Liverpool featuring the work of Jo Brocklehurst and photographer Sheila Rock later this year, it's called Typical Girls and runs from the 19th of August - 4th September 2016.

She will borrow...his knee-length socks, his watch, his black trousers, his tie (worn squaw-like round her head), his troubadour shirt, and in mad moments, will dab his aftershave behind her ears. 

                                                                  The artist's signature (1970).

Jo Brocklehurst's signature on the front of a poster advertising an exhibition of her London Drawings in 1984. Almost identical to the example from 14 years earlier. I can also see some traces of similarity in the execution of the features between this girl and the chap below.

He will borrow...her hairdryer, her rollers, her belt with enormous buckle, her waistcoat, her boots, and no one will recognize it as being hers!

                                 Jo Brocklehurst in Rome, 1966. Photo courtesy of Fershid Bharucha.

My old school art folder with insert of Jo's name in bottom right corner, written on the inside on the day that I first discovered her (as mentioned earlier), the folder itself is in pretty shabby condition these days, it's falling apart, a lot of Bowie still on there though, along with David Sylvian, Mick Karn, Steve Strange, Edwyn Collins & Eddie Cochran among others.

                                                IMAGE CREDITS & LINKS
Images scanned for the Sweet Jane blog from the Boyfriend book 1970 with thanks to Brad Jones, all illustrations by Jo Brocklehurst. Art Folder photo by Sweet Jane. Remembering Jo Brocklehurst, the Artist Who Documented London's 1980s Anarcho-Punk Squatters here, Discover more about the artist Egon Schiele here, Read an excerpt from Sex and Unisex: Fashion Feminism, and the Sexual Revolution by Jo B. Paoletti on Pop Matters here & visit the author's blog here, The New York Dolls rocking some outfits from Biba in 1973 here, The white dress Mick Jagger wore for the 1969 Rolling Stones' Hyde Park concert epitomised the swinging Sixties, says Mick Brown hereYou'll find fashion & anti-fashion, street style and much more on the excellent Ted Polhemus in the 21st Century website here, and Shapers of the 80s - British youth culture at its finest here, His and Hers - the 2010 exhibition exploring the relationship between gender and fashion over the past 250 years is still available to view on the FIT archive here. and finally, Where Were You? Dublin Youth Culture & Street Style 1950-2000 by Garry O'Neill here & here.

Saturday, 4 June 2016

What's phisticated then? 1967

What's phisticated then? It's good manners in a vodka. Smirnoff is the cleanest, discreetest, the strong silent vodka. Leaves you clear-headed. Take the general's advice and order it. Not ''vodka'' Len, ''Smirnoff''.

                                                      IMAGE CREDIT
Image scanned by Sweet Jane from The Daily Telegraph Magazine December 8th 1967. View some of my previous vintage Smirnoff advert posts here and also here. You'll find The Booze Book illustrated by John Astrop & Eric Hill 1967 here, The trend for wearing military jackets via I Was Lord Kitchener's Valet here & also here. It's also included in the excellent Gear Guide 1967 here. Your Boutique Needs You! inside London's Portobello Road "Lord Kitchener's Valet" here. And finally, colour film footage of the craze & shop here  plus an interview with Robert Orbach and one of the most famous exponents of the look here.

Friday, 27 May 2016

Pennywise 1972

    Pennywise: The fashion boutiques where you get the best - for less!


                                                IMAGE CREDIT & LINKS.
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from LOVING Magazine 5th February 1972 & 12th February 1972 with thanks to Kirstin Sibley, Original Fashion feature by Penny Saunders, Photography by Barry Giles. Models uncredited but the girl in the first feature reminds me of a very young Lorraine Chase. View some more of my previous 1970s fashion posts here and also here. You'll find The 1970s [Episode One: Get it On 1970-1972] a BBC documentary here. And finally, She's so 1970s ..She's a Modern Girl here.

Saturday, 21 May 2016

Aubrey Beardsley Prince De L'Art - Plexus 1968

Loving this Beardsley feature published in issue No.12 of Plexus (the French erotic art magazine) around two years after the first major retrospective of his work organised by Brian Reade had taken place at the Victoria and Albert Museum in 1966, the illustrations are from a selection of the exhibited work reproduced for publication by Reade, who was also the V&A's Deputy Keeper at the department of prints and drawings at the time. I am particularly enamoured with the colour plates, I'm not sure if this reflects them as they are presented in his book published by Studio Vista in 1967 as I don't have a copy of it and to date I haven't found any other examples online, but as various shades of a pink & orange theme feature consistently on many other pages throughout this entire Plexus issue, i'll presume that they took it upon themselves to do so here too, speaking of which, the pink has turned out fairly accurately but the orange deepened by a couple of shades in the scanning process, in reality it's much brighter, almost fluorescent! I've translated the accompanying text from French to English via Google...I hope it still bears some resemblance to the original!

                               Un dessinateur retrouvé, une peintre perdu                
Art posters, psychedelic art, the art of femmes-fleur, this new art which comes to us from young America, from the East Village and Haight Ashbury in San Francisco, has it's origins in three great ancestors: Hieronymus Bosch for the fantastic, William Blake for mysticism and Aubrey Beardsley for eroticism. On both sides of the Atlantic the new romanticism is inspired by the 1900's and many of the artists that we publish in Plexus by their own account, have clearly discovered Beardsley for themselves. The career of Aubrey Beardsley (born in 1872) was brief, he died at the age of 25 at the Cosmopolitan  Hotel in Menton, where he had arrived a few months earlier, hoping to use the Mediterranean climate to fight a little longer against tuberculosis from which he had suffered since the age of seven. After his demise, the public either ignored or quickly forgot his name but although his career was short lived, it was sufficient enough to influence several generations of artists. According to Beardsley, he wanted to paint but his fragile health never allowed him to truly deliver this passion,  apart from two oil paintings, which are  beautiful indeed, and suggest that a great painter was lost, but a great designer remains. The works of Beardsley, are essentially illustrations commissioned for luxury editions of other works in vogue at the end of the century; Salome by Oscar Wilde, Aristophanes' Lysistrata, Volpone by Ben Jonson, Juvenal's poems and the Tales of Poe etc. Beardsley became famous overnight when a magazine, The Studio, published one of the drawings that he had devised for Salome. This drawing entitled ''I kissed your mouth, Jokanaan'' represented Salome kissing the severed head of John the Baptist, needless to say that puritan England was shocked, finding the talent an excuse for sacrilegious audacity. That was in 1893. Beardsley, at 20 years old was a London personality, he led the life of a fin de siécle dandy, in brilliant salons and fashionable places. In five years until spring 1898, when he died, Aubrey Beardsley never ceased responding to commands from publishers even when he was sacked from his role as Art Editor of The Yellow Book, the magazine he co-founded, which promoted the best artists and writers of the time.  In 1966, a large retrospective first presented in London (Victoria and Albert Museum) and then New York (Gallery of Modern Art), brought together more than five hundred drawings selected from the best, which showed the extent of the work over a five year period along with the technique and the richness of the imagination of the young artist. The art critic Brian Reade (renowned Beardsley scholar) has recently published the majority of drawings he selected for these exhibitions in a book entitled, Aubrey Beardsley, by Studio Vista, London.

                                                                IMAGE CREDIT & LINKS
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from PLEXUS issue No.12 1968. View examples of  The Aubrey Beardsley influence in some of my previous posts here & also here, Find my previous Plexus Magazine posts here, Discover more about renowned Beardsley scholar & art historian Brian Reade here, Further information about Beardsley's first cover design for the ‘Yellow Book’ 1894 here, and view the only two known examples of his oil painting work here, you'll find an incredible Beardsley print ensemble here , and another one here, Watch an Aubrey Beardsley documentary here (part 1 of 4), a superb collection of Beardsley posts and associated links on {Feuilleton} John Coulthart's excellent blog hereLost in Translation (the soundtrack on in the background as I put this post together) here and finally, The End - Shades of Orange (1968) here.

Friday, 6 May 2016

How much is a Beatle worth? 1966


                                      HOW MUCH IS A BEATLE WORTH?
Only you know how much they mean to you personally. But here's how much they're worth financially...The Beatles are willing to talk about most things in their lives-except money, probably because they don't even know how much they've got! Here, RAVE attempts to unveil one of the biggest secrets in pop, with an exclusive breakdown on Beatle wealth.

                                                               IMAGE CREDIT & LINKS
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from RAVE Magazine December 1966, original research material for the article by George Tremlett. Discover more about Taxman, the opening track on the Beatles' 1966 Revolver album here. Read about The Beatles' foray into retail via Apple Boutique & The Fool Design Collective in one of my previous posts hereYou Never Give Me Your Money - a lament about The Beatles' business wranglings of early 1969 here. Further information about Dandie Fashions & Apple Tailoring located at 161 Kings Road here. View the interior of 161 as it is today & more on The King's Road Music & Fashion Trail here, and finally, read about Leslie Cavendish, the Vidal Sassoon trained stylist who ran the Beatles' Hairdressing Salon in the basement of Apple Tailoring here.

Thursday, 21 April 2016

Un diamant est éternel - Nicole Claveloux 1970

                                                               IMAGE CREDIT & LINKS
Image scanned for the Sweet Jane blog from ELLE Magazine 13th April 1970 with thanks to Brad Jones. Illustration for De Beers by Nicole Claveloux. Visit the artist's official website here. View other examples of 'The Psychedelic Illustrations of Nicole Claveloux' & discover more about her on the excellent Golden Haze blogspot here. How an ad campaign invented the diamond as an engagement ring here and finally, view another psychedelic advert from the 1969 De Beers diamonds campaign  in one of my previous post here