Monday, 24 October 2016

Carte Blanche de Weill Paris 1969

Some very striking images from Weill's 1969 prêt-à-porter collection, these three adverts were part of an extensive publicity campaign to promote the rather exotically named range. 

                                                                                Modèle Indiana

                                                                                    Modèle Jade

                                                                                  Modèle Bali

                                                 IMAGE CREDIT & LINKS
Image (1) scanned for the Sweet Jane blog from Elle Magazine 13th October 1969 with thanks to Brad Jones, photographer and models uncredited. Image (2) & (3) scanned from my personal collection of vintage adverts which I purchased as individual pages, separated from their original unidentified 1969 magazine publications, although I would imagine it is more than likely that they were also featured in other issues of Elle from this period, Discover more about the Weill brand heritage founded in 1892 by Albert Weill here.

Sunday, 16 October 2016

Pop Style 1965

In this exuberant year of crazy haircuts, above-knee skirts and giddy stockings, the fashion designers in search of something even further out have turned to pop art. A dozen Junior Miss firms are busily running up little sleeveless shifts to serve as human canvases for the carefully delineated mundane objects which pop artists love to glorify. The dresses display a man's waistcoat and watch, beads and zippers, and for a real clincher, that famous can of soup. Pop fashions already have it made in the U.S. where teenagers are collecting them as avidly as their elders collect painted classics by pop masters like Warhol and Lichtenstein. According to visiting Londoner Jill Stuart, who poses here, they are a threat to those invading far-out styles, the French Yé-Yé's and her hometown Chelsea look.

Jill Stuart wears a simple cotton dress (Crazy Horse, $15) printed in pop art style. Her vest a parody of real ones worn by the British singing pair, Chad and Jeremy. Chad is Jill's husband.

Bold polka dot collar and tie and out-sized hip belt are screen printed on above-the-knee shifts each $15, Bandbox Junior Petites. (*The dress on the right was yellow with a red printed belt). They are worn here by Jill (right) and American teenager Paula Feiten with no other accessories but their swinging, shoulder length hair, black stockings or boots.

Giant zipper pretends to fasten front of dress (Crazy Horse, $15) - kidding, in pop fashion, about one of the most practical and unglamorous parts of apparel. (Real zipper in back doesn't show.)

Glamourous beads cover most of facade of dress (Kelita $15) contrasting with Orphan Annie black stockings. 

Another example of the printed bead dress by Kelita (above), in colour this time round, for the full 'Pop Art' effect! 

Some of the most famous pieces of pop art are Andy Warhol's paintings of Campbell's soup cans. He has made 32 oils of this familiar first course, and has sold them for $1,500 each. He also autographs actual 12¢ cans of tomato soup, selling them at $6 each. But this dress by Crazy Horse costs only $15.

                                                           IMAGE CREDITS & LINKS
All images scanned By Sweet Jane from LIFE magazine 26th February 1965. All photographs by Fred Eberstadt. All information courtesy of the original article. Except colour example of the Kelita printed bead dress which I scanned from Sixties Fashion - from 'less is more' to Youthquake by Jonathan Walford, How Warhol's work influenced our wardrobes here, Discover more about The Fabric of Pop Exhibition at the V&A in 1974 here,  Examples of Geometric Pop Designs by John Kloss here, Read about Chad & Jeremy’s Double Life here and view more examples of Jill Stuart modelling in 1965 on Mini Mad Mod 60s here and also Ford Model Paula Feiten here, You'll find Cathy McGowan & Ready Steady Go-a key component in the emerging British pop and fashion scene here Some New York Pop Fashion from 1971 here, Pop Goes the Easel-A portrait of pop artists Peter Blake, Derek Boshier, Pauline Boty & Peter Phillips (documentary 1962) here, and finally view Andy Warhol-The Complete Picture (a documentary) here.

Saturday, 17 September 2016

The Picture of Fashion 1972

A short article from The Sun annual for Girls encouraging the customisation of old clothing & accessories with some hand-painted designs, a very popular trend throughout the early 1970s, along with applique, embroidery and tie-dyeing techniques. They're making it sound easy enough, as they always did in these teen magazine/annual features, however, the incredible pop art boots on display which were used as examples (although uncredited) are actually the work of London shoe designer Richard Evans who made boots for lots of well known music biz types at the time such as Elton John, George Harrison, Rory Gallagher and Roxy Music, these particular boots are from his 1970 collection. He had originally studied fashion design at the Nottingham School of Art in the 1960s and followed that with a post-graduate course in graphic design at Leicester College of Art, working as a fashion illustrator for a brief period afterwards. He then began making leather and snakeskin clothing and accessories before progressing onto designing platforms and stack heeled boots, eventually setting up Daisy Roots, his footwear design label. His foray into fashion seems to have been quite short lived though, and you would probably be more familiar with his graphic work via Hipgnosis, the art design group who specialised in album cover art, where he continued to work from the early 1970s until 1976 when he set up his own design studio.

Four fantastic images of Richard Evans and his Pop Art boot collection in November, 1970.  The Yellow Submarine boots shown above are included in the slideshow. Photographs by Paul Fievez courtesy of the Hulton Getty Archive.

                                                         IMAGE CREDITS & LINKS
All images scanned for the Sweet Jane blog from the Sun Annual for Girls 1972 with thanks to Brad Jones, Original article by Brenda Uttley, Photographer & models uncredited. Richard Evans series of photos by Paul Fievez courtesy of the Hulton Getty Archive. Visit the official Richard Evans website here, More example of Richard Evans footwear here, View an example of his Fashion Illustration work for Petticoat Magazine in 1968 here, All things Hipgnosis here, The official Storm Thorgerson website here, View some more DIY boot fashion from 1971 in one of my previous posts here, more examples of the applique fashion trend of the 1970s here, the amazing pop art fashions of Mr Freedom here, an interview with Richard Evans on Rockerista from 2011 here and finally the inspiration behind those boots here & also here.

Thursday, 8 September 2016

Dandy Fashion: New plumes in the peacock's tail 1968

I first blogged about this Daily Telegraph article by Geoffrey Aquilina-Ross here back in 2012, although I didn't have the actual issue at the time, but had managed to piece some of it together from extracts which had been featured in a couple of 1960s style reference books, including one by the author. I finally got an original copy around three years ago and have been meaning to update the post properly ever since. It was Part 1 of a series on men's fashion by the magazine, I also have the second in the series which you can find via the links at the end of the post.

                                   THE END OF THE SAGGY BAGGY ELEPHANT
Clothes by Mr.Fish, Douglas Hayward, Blades and other tailors, who see nothing sissy about finery for men, are influencing the ready-to-wear racks. Bulky drab has had it's day!

TERENCE STAMP, unshaven but certainly elegant, plays a Mexican bandit in the psychological western Blue, due this summer. Here he wears a suit that looks like his uniform in Far From the Madding Crowd. The jacket is tight-fitting, with a large collar, and although double-breasted looks trim and narrow. Black barathea, edged with braiding. 70 gns, to order. Arrogant touches are his black velour hat and silk scarf. Douglas Hayward, who made the suit, is wearing his single-breasted calvary twill suit, 60 gns to order. 95 Mount Street, W1.

PATRICK LICHFIELD, right, at Blades with Rupert Lycett Green, who owns it. A photographer and charity worker, Lord Lichfield needs clothes that are hard-wearing. His suit in black worsted is very slim-fitting, with a waisted jacket, double-breasted with a Regency collar and braid, 75 gns to order. At the neck of his deep-collared shirt is a bold sari silk scarf tied tie fashion. Rupert Lycett Green wears a light-weight worsted, cut classically with a waisted jacket and straight-cut trousers, 74 gns to order. All at Blades, 8 Burlington Gardens, W1.

PAINTER PATRICK PROCKTOR at hatters Herbert Johnson. His show at Redfern was a resounding success and his sets and costumes for Twelfth Night at The Royal Court made it a memorable production. To improve the popular image of the artist's standard of dress, he has an elegant slim grey suit with big  full lapels, from Dulis at Croydon. He likes hats and always wears a romantic, wide-brimmed fedora. Here his red hat is stitched in velvet, and the plum hat with wide floppy brim is velour, both 6 gns from Herbert Johnson, Bond Street, W1.

DAVID HEMMINGS is in The Charge of the Light Brigade and plays a con man in Only When I Larf, coming in June. Here he wears the newest smoking coat, light-weight, in navy-blue velvet trimmed with black. The coat is long and very slim, the pockets are deep and button high, 45 gns. Pink silk crepe shirt, 12 gns, roll-neck as originally designed by Turnbull & Asser many years ago. All from them, 71 Jermyn Street, W1.

BARRY SAINSBURY, one of the grocery heirs, is always named among Britain's best-dressed men. He is a director of Mr Fish, where he buys most of his clothes; the rest he picks up in Paris or Rome. In the shirt cutting room at Mr Fish, with Christopher Lynch, a co-director and stylist of the shop, Barry Sainsbury wears an embroidered velvet brocade evening jacket; 65 gns to order. It is a slim, slightly waisted, double-breasted jacket that buttons low, with wide lapels. His roll-neck shirt in Viyella is one of a wide range of colours at 7 gns. Mr Fish, 17 Clifford Street, W1.

NEWEST LOOK at Mr Fish is a lean coat in antique brown leather that converts into a short jacket. It is very long, with a huge coachman collar, and all around the waist is a concealed zip *that when undone changes the coat into a jacket. 65 gns to order. With it, Barry Sainsbury wears an extra deep-collared white roll-neck sweater in triple cashmere, 17 gns. Mr Fish, 17 Clifford St, W1.

TOMMY STEELE will be seen as an Irish butler in The Happiest Millionaire at Easter, and later this year as Og, the leprechaun, in Finnian's Rainbow. Here with Douglas Hayward, he wears a corduroy suit and roll-neck sweater. The suit is casual, single-breasted, with wide lapels and a deep vent at the back. 60 gns. Douglas Hayward's shop, flannel-walled and marble-floored, is at 95 Mount Street, W1.                                                        

                                                          IMAGE CREDITS  & LINKS
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from The Daily Telegraph Magazine, April 5th 1968. Original editorial by Geoffrey Aquilina-Ross, photographs by Hans Feurer. View my original post from 2012 here, You'll find part two of Geoffrey Aquilina-Ross's series on men's fashion for the magazine in 1968 here, Spend 45 minutes with Terence Stamp here, Discover more about the heritage of Hayward 95 Mount Street and the man behind it here, Art and Life: A short documentary film about the Dublin born artist Patrick Procktor here, and you'll find some further reading about The lost dandy here, Discover more about Blades & Rupert Lycett Green hereDavid Hemmings: Ready For His "Blow-Up" here and view the real Blow Up documentary here, Another example of some tailoring Peculiar to Mr fish in one of previous posts here, A recent article about the label here, plus some footage of the man himself and his 1969 collection here and finally, whatever happened to Christopher Lynch?

Monday, 22 August 2016

Whatever Happened to Steven Topper & Topper Shoes?


               Whatever Happened to Steven Topper & Topper Shoes? 

If you were to browse through the men's fashion section of every other issue of Rave magazine from the mid 1960s onwards, I guarantee you would soon notice that the names Steven Topper & Topper Shoes usually follow one after the other on a fairly regular basis. Much favoured by stylish young men about town, Topper Shoes were without a doubt one of the most happening footwear brands of the era. The clientele list included the British pop hierarchy such as The Rolling Stones, The Small Faces and The Who as well as visiting international acts like Bob Dylan and Johnny Halliday...and yet, they seem to have 'almost' vanished from history, there is barely a trace of their legacy to be found online apart from the occasional Carnaby Street reference and a couple of interesting threads posted on 1960s/1970s style forums. Although in fairness, they have been name checked in several books and slightly elaborated upon in others through the personal stories of former customers, but there is no definitive account of the brand's heritage or any archival examples available all in one place that I am currently aware of. 

Topper shoes were already well established by the early 1960s, with three branches in London, one located at 68 Queensway in W2. and the others at 34 Coventry Street and 57 Shaftesbury Avenue in W1.  But they really came into their own when 18 year old Steven Topper, the owner's son, took the reins and headed for Carnaby Street. I don't have an exact date but he was definitely trading there by 1965, however, the earliest reference that i've come across in print from my personal magazine collection dates back to the 'London Swings' issue of Rave magazine from April 1966. Topper Shoes located at 45 Carnaby St is included in the poptastic illustrated Raver's Map of London along with a brief description of the shop on the next page.

By the following year they were featured in the Gear Guide a 'Hip-pocket guide to Britain's Swinging Fashion Scene' and while still brief, it gives a more detailed account of how things were progressing.  There were now two Topper Shoe shops on Carnaby Street, they were still at No.45 but also had a branch at No.9. The first one catered for men only, it was open Monday-Saturday 9.00 am-6.o0 pm with late night shopping until 7.00 pm on Thursday and Friday, with the range costing between three pounds to ten Guineas.  The other shop at No.9 had a 'beautifully cool interior in weird purply shades' it kept the same opening hours as the previous one but catered for Girls and Men..I've never seen any examples of their Girls shoes but apparently they had a wide and original range which cost from three pounds to five pounds-fifteen for shoes and from ninety-nine-and-elevenpence to seven pounds-nineteen and six for boots! All of the collections, which perfectly complimented the latest clothing for sale on the street, were designed by Steven Topper himself and manufactured to a high standard in France and Italy.

According to Tom Salter's book about Carnaby Street there were a total of five Topper shoe shops in 1970,  i'm assuming at this point that he is referring to the original three that I have mentioned plus the last two..but then again, maybe not, perhaps some of the originals had closed and there were more branches in Carnaby Street or at new locations? It also says that the owner was a chap called 'Monty Stewart' so, was Topper merely a business name rather than the actual family surname? While researching material for this post I came across a photograph of another branch at 146 Markham Street in SW3 (undated) and also a piece of film footage which features a Topper Shoe shop located on the King's Road circa 1977 but unfortunately the trail runs cold after that..Which leads me back to my original question...Whatever happened to Steven Topper and Topper Shoes?

The Fortunes, suited and booted, outside Toppers at 57 Shaftesbury Avenue, London W.1., 1964. Photograph © Jeremy Fletcher .

                                          Early 1960s Topper Shoes business card.

The Raver's Map of London, an illustrated guide to the most happening Boutiques, Discotheques and Restaurants in the Capital as featured in Rave magazine's 72 page London Swings issue of April 1966...and Topper Shoes make the list!  The description of the shop on the following page says that it sells reasonably priced mod designed shoes, and that they always have the latest! Designed by Steve Topper, at prices ranging from £2 10s to £7.

A close-up of the Raver's map, According to this, Topper Shoes located at number 45 Carnaby Street is situated between John Stephen's Tre Camp (No.46) and Ravel (No.44), but in reality it was actually next to Inderwicks the Tobacconist & Pipe Specialist on the left and Ravel on the right. (April 1966).

A rare photograph of the Topper Shoe shop facade at 45 Carnaby Street, you can just about see Ravel, but the next door on the left is clearly Inderwicks the tobacconist shop, which intriguingly also seems to be located at number 45 Carnaby St! (perhaps it was an a&b situation?). Photograph © mario de biasi/Mondadori Portfolio via Getty Images. (1966)

Inderwicks the Pipe & Tobacco Specialist 45 Carnaby St illustrated by Malcolm English for Tom Salter's Carnaby Street book in 1970. The company was founded in 1797 by John Inderwick, the original shop located on Wardour Street was one of the earliest tobacconists in London. They may have seemed out of place in the midst of the Carnaby St pop explosion but stayed put nevertheless, resisting several tempting offers on their lease throughout this period. The pop revolution actually enhanced their business rather threaten it, as curious Carnaby St shoppers spilled off the busy pavement and ventured in to buy their specialist tobacco blends, cigarettes and the long clay Churchwardens, Corncobs and Meerschaum pipes which they had been selling for 170 years. Above Inderwicks was the very first Aristos Boutique, it comprised of two rooms on the first floor, a small shop area in the front and a workroom in the back in which Constantinou Aristos ran up garments for girls. The son of a master tailor, he had graduated from the London College of Fashion in 1965 and with the profits from the fledgling boutique he soon opened up his second shop named Blooshp at 45 Newburgh Street, W1. When he was eventually joined in the business by his younger brother Achillea, the two went on to expand the company, later renaming it Ariella in 1971.

Bob Dylan photographed by Barry Feinstein trying on shoes in Topper's (1966), He was at the end of a world tour at this point in time, playing The Royal Albert Hall twice while in London on May 26th & May 27th, so this was more than likely taken sometime on or around those dates. There seems to be a wall of fame in the background, perhaps made up of other well known celebrity customers, included are 'The Who' on Bob's immediate left, unmistakable in their pop art regalia.

High sand suede boots with leather linings to keep water out. Also in black leather and olive suede. From Steve Topper, Carnaby Street, London, W.1. Price £7 19s. 6d. (November 1966).

Brian Jones with his girlfriend Anita Pallenberg. December 3rd 1966. Brian is wearing a pair of two tone basket weave laced-up shoes by Topper.

The side and back view detail of Brian's two tone basket weave lace-ups by Topper, December 3rd 1966. 

All of the shoes featured here are by Topper.  Left: Shirt, £5 19s. 6d. Cape and topcoat for spying! Coat, £9 19s. 6d, cape £2. 19s. 6d. Trousers, £3 19s. 6d. All from Take Six, Wardour Street, W.1. Shoes, 69s, 11., from Topper.  Middle: Prime ministerial shirt in purple satin with super puffed sleeves, £2 15s. Black trench coat, £17 17s. 6d. Wool hessian trousers in charcoal, £4 9s. All from Adam W.1, Kingly Street, London, W.1. Shoes, 99s.11d., from Topper. Right: Aristocratic double-breasted suit from John Stephen, price 18 gns, 16s. 6d. Pink seersucker shirt from Paul's boutique, 79s. 11d. Macao canvas and leather shoes, 85s., from Topper. (February 1967).

Ian McLagan of The Small Faces photographed at home for an article in Rave, he's wearing the same style of basket weave laced-up shoe from Topper of Carnaby Street that Brian Jones has on in the previous photos above. (April 1967).

Harris Tweed suit with waisted jacket and turn-ups. It costs 16gns. at Take Six Boutique, Wardour Street, London, W.1.  Also from Take Six is the fabulous skinny sweater in bright green. It's got a purple band on the roll neck collar, and costs 40s. 6d. Completing the outfit are casual shoes from Steve Topper, Carnaby Street, London W.1. They're in red-brown and black leather. Price £5 9s. 6d. (February 1968).

In spite of this issue's slew of teenage worries, there's still just enough space left to promote the new summer range from Topper Shoes, these are from the branch located at No.9, Carnaby Street. Left to Right: Slip-on in hessian, Natural or Ice Blue, 59s. 11d., Cord boots in Camel or Brown, 59s. 11d., Lace-up in Navy or Natural, 49s. 11d., Canvas slip-on in White or Brown, 49s. 11d. All shoes are lightweight and ideal for the beach. (August 1968).

Signage over one the Topper  Shoe shops on Carnaby Street.


Topper Shoes, 45 Carnaby St (just seen on left next to Ravel) still going strong eight years later in October 1973. (Photo by Evening Standard/Hulton Archive/Getty Images).

               Topper Shoes 146 Markham Street, Chelsea SW3. Photograph courtesy of Sixties City.


The facade of another Topper shoe shop, which was included in a short news report for Thames Television in 1977 about the 'health concerns' associated with the fashion fad for wearing platform shoes! I'm not sure of the exact address of this branch, this is most likely the side view of the building rather than the main entrance but it's definitely located somewhere on the King's Road, the precise number of the shop could be close to 59b, which is just seen on a door above the head of the interviewer for at couple of seconds at one point. I can't quite make out the name behind the Topper van opposite but next to it is a branch of Irvine Sellars' Mates boutique. Several interviews take place throughout the footage, there is one in particular  filmed right outside Topper's with a young chap who seems to be fairly knowledgeable about the customer base, I can't help wondering if this is the manager of the shop or perhaps the elusive Steven Topper himself? I've also included a link to some footage of outtakes from the same film at the end of the post which provides excellent examples of popular street footwear and fashion of the time, lots of platform shoes, boots and wedged heels worn with flares, maxis and minis, although there is some discrepancy regarding the date via Pathé who have credited it as 1970 this time round rather than 1977.

An interview outside Topper Shoes SW3, 1977. (No. 59b just seen above, on the door in the background).

                                                   Could this be the elusive Steven Topper?

And finally, an example of a pair of Lace Up, Leather Ox Blood, Bubble Toe, Crepe Wedges with matching suede side panel - which were available from Topper's in Carnaby Street circa 1972/73, they also came in black with a grey suede side panel. I'd be interested to hear from anyone who is still in possession of a pair of these or knows the whereabouts of some and also any other information relating to  Steven Topper & Topper Shoes.

                                                                  IMAGE CREDITS
All images credited in descending order: The Fortunes 1964. Photograph © Jeremy Fletcher courtesy of Carnaby Street The Musical, Topper Shoes business card courtesy of Mod to the Suedehead thread on StyleForum, Raver's Map of London & close-up scanned by Sweet Jane from Rave Magazine April 1966, Topper Shoes facade 45 Carnaby Street © mario de biasi/Mondadori 1966, Inderwicks the Pipe & Tobacco Specialist illustrated by Malcolm English scanned by Sweet Jane from Carnaby Street by Tom Salter 1970, Bob Dylan © Barry Feinstein 1966, Just Dennis/Topper Shoes scanned by Sweet Jane from Rave Magazine November 1966, Brian Jones & Anita Pallenberg December 3rd 1966 Photo courtesy of Bentley Archive/Popperfoto/ and J. Wilds/Keystone/Getty Images, Just Dennis/Topper Shoes scanned by Sweet Jane from Rave Magazine February 1967, Ian McLagan scanned by Sweet Jane from Rave Magazine April 1967, Johnny Rave scanned by Sweet Jane from Rave Magazine February 1968 & August 1968, Topper  Shoe signage screenshot from The History of Carnaby Street archive footage, Topper Shoes, 45 Carnaby St 1973 courtesy of Evening Standard/Hulton Archive/Getty Images, Topper Shoes 146 Markham Street courtesy of Sixties City, Topper Shoes King's Road screenshots courtesy of Thames Television via British Pathé. Ox Blood Crepe Wedges courtesy of the Mod to Suedehead thread on Styleforum.

                                                 LINKS & FURTHER READING
Watch 'Eat The Document' a documentary film of Bob Dylan's 1966 tour of the United Kingdom directed by D.A. Pennebaker here, View the aforementioned outtakes from the Thames Television 'Platform Shoes' news report here, A review of Sympathy for the Devil - The birth of the Rolling Stones and the death of Brian Jones here, You'll find an example of an Inderwicks Shell Bulldog Pipe here. Participate in the Mod to Suedehead thread on Styleforum here, Visit the Sixties City website here, A pair of Topper shoes featured in 'The French Cut' over on the Film Noir Buff website here, Discover more about the early years of Ariella here, Whatever Happened to The Likely Lads here, and finally The Buzzcocks wanna know Whatever Happened to? (well, quite a lot of stuff actually!) here .

Sunday, 14 August 2016

Rags for Riders 1971

Left to Right: American baseball t-shirt, various colourways, from Kleptomania £3.25. American denim jeans, tight n' flared £5.00, from Kleptomania. Yellow and purple woolen two-piece £8.40 from Che Guevara. Detective Luff an Oz Obscenity Trial t-shirt, teamed up with Stirling Cooper canvas trousers, £5.75 from Che Guevara.

                                                             Rags for Riders
Until recently in motorcycling lore, there were only two respectable modes of dress, neither of which had particularly favourable social connotations: The rocker uniform of blue jeans and leather jackets and the ankle length storm coat and baggy rubber oversuits of an earlier generation. Now, as the popularity of biking spreads across a wider social spectrum, such sartorial rigidity is being ignored as more and more riders (and their chicks) opt for jazzier threads that gladden the eye whilst still maintaing reasonable standards of practicality. The firm most responsible for this revolution in motorcycle garb are TT Leathers, who do a healthy mail order business out of Montalbo Road, Barnard Castle, Co. Durham, (they'll happily send you a catalogue). Most of their wide range of designs - some styled on American lines - available in a variety of eleven colours and the suppleness of the leather and the quality of craftsmanship belie their extremely reasonable price. TT also sell through dealers.

TT Leathers recently introduced an oiled cotton trials suit - the Ruffryder - available in red, blue, green and black. Lighter and more flatteringly cut than competitive garments, the Ruffryder adds a welcome dash of colour to the trials scene and a seventy mile motorway dash in driving rain, (August is the monsoon season in England), proved to Bike's editor that they're also damned waterproof! Other firms such as D.Lewis and Rivetts are also waking up to the appeal of flashy riding gear and are including coloured leathers in their ranges. So as it looks as though coloured clobber is here to stay, we've dug out some of the snappier but nevertheless practical outfits from around town and juxtaposed them with examples of the more inspired traditional biking gear.

Left to Right: Green 'Ruffryder' trials suit (jacket £9.95, trousers £6.75). in several colours from TT Leathers. Ex-Firemans' boots, (excellent for trials and scrambles) £2.95 from Lawrence Corner. Soft leather scrambles glovers with protective rubber strips over fingers and knuckles, £2.50 from D. Lewis, 'Wrangler' denim jacket from The Westerner together with wide flare denim jeans from The Emperor of Wyoming. £5.00. 'Honeybunch Kaminsky (jailbait of the month)' an Oz Obscenity Trial t-shirt. £1.50. BSA Victor 250cc trail bike, £309.00 (supplied by Sid Morams of Slough).

Left to Right: 'Bronx' black leather jacket with tons of zips and buckles, £15.75 from D. Lewis (in men's and women's sizes). Heavy pile cotton baseball jacket with quilted lining in several colours, from Paradise Garage. Both ladies are wearing Stirling Cooper canvas trousers from Che Guevara.

Left to Right; Blue denim jacket with brown leather shoulder patches from The Westerner. Yellow jersey jacket, very waisted with wide lapels, £9.95, with matching canvas trousers £5.75, both from Che Guevara. Zipped blue leather racing gloves with chamois leather patches on back to wipe goggles, also in other colours, £3.00 from D.Lewis. Protect 4 helmets in various candy colours, ACU approved for competition use, £5.50 from Stadium.

Outside, Left to Right: Black Stirling Cooper canvas suit with zipper jacket, £19.50 (available in other colours) from Che Guevara. Genuine American overalls in blue denim from Paradise Garage. 

Left to Right: American baseball t-shirt, various colourways, from Kleptomania £3.25. American denim jeans, tight n' flared £5.00, from Kleptomania. Yellow and purple woolen two-piece £8.40 from Che Guevara. Detective Luff an Oz Obscenity Trial t-shirt, teamed up with Stirling Cooper canvas trousers, £5.75 from Che Guevara.

Yellow 'Mach ll' jacket with quilted leather padding on elbows and shoulders, also in others colours, £21.00 from TT Leathers, American denim jeans from Kleptomania, £5.00. Everoak 'Clubmaster MK. ll' low-crown helmet, ACU approved and in various colours, £6.10. Plain black racing gloves, £2.40 from D. Lewis. 750 cc Norton Commando with customised half-fairing, gas tank, racing-style seat rear-set foot-rests and exhaust system supplied by Gus Kuhn (Motors) Ltd.

Left to Right; Secondhand American denim overalls from Paradise Garage. Embroidered cotton shirt (like the country n' western dudes wear), various colours and patterns, from £6.00 at the Emperor of Wyoming. Genuine cowboy boots with hand-stitched patterns down front, various colours, from £13.00 at The Westerner ■ Oz t-shirt, £1.50, Denim flare jeans. £5.00, at Kleptomania. Hessian and leather 'U.S. Mail' shoulder bag from the Westerner, Belts from a selection at Emperor of Wyoming ■ Secondhand American striped boiler suit, with large Esso fabric badge, from a selection at Paradise Garage. Cowboy boots with hand stitching and applique, from The Westerner. (Similar boots are also available at the Emperor of Wyoming from £12.00).

                                                         IMAGE CREDIT & LINKS
All images scanned for the Sweet Jane blog from Bike Issue No. 2 Autumn 1971 with thanks to Brad Jones, Editor Mark Williams, Photographer & models uncredited, but the guy on the chopper is Mickey Solomon and Mark Williams is on the BSA Victor 250cc trail bike.  View one of my previous posts about Biker Fashion here, You'll find examples of other gear from Kleptomania herehere, Discover more about the late great Billy Murphy ''Founder of The Emperor of Wyoming, a Chelsea emporium which sparked a vogue for vintage Americana'' here and also here, the shop was named The Emperor of Wyoming after the opening track on Neil Young’s 1968 debut solo LP, my personal favourite from it here, View rare photographs of Paradise Garage 430 King's Road as it looked in 1971 via Paul Gorman here & it's 70s Workwear Revolution here plus the story behind the shop created by Trevor Myles over on The Wonder Workshop website here, The ‘Schoolkids’ Oz, Mucky Books, and the Downfall of the ‘Dirty Squad’' here, 'I was an Oz Schoolkid'' a personal account about the creation of the infamous Oz issue No.28, by Charles Shaar Murray here, And finally,view documentary footage about the Oz Obscenity Trial Part one  & two.