Saturday, 18 April 2015

Pop Fashion 1971

Apart from its inclusion in this original article from 1971, the Orphan Annie fashion label is completely unknown to me and there doesn't seem to be any other relevant information out there at the moment, none that I could find at any rate (so far), with the exception of a couple of vintage items that have turned up for sale on Ebay and Etsy over the past number of years, two of which were illustrated in this editorial.  Ritva on the other hand has been reasonably well documented online, therefore i've included some links to further reading about that label at the end of this post.

Lucky Strike and Ritz crackers sweaters are by Orphan Annie and sell for $15 at B.Altman "Eat at Joe's" was designed by Ritva of London and is sold here for $40 at Bloomingdale's.

                                   POP SWEATERS WITH A SENSE OF HUMOR
Just when it seems as though pop might be a dying art, up comes a crop of pop fashions, this time in sweater form. Some portray such things as a Ritz Cracker box. Or a Lucky Strike pack - before the  green went to war. Others might best be described as kitsch flavored fashions. Betsey Johnson, a young woman who has never taken her fashions too seriously, has loaded her designs for Alley Cat with scenic vistas that might have been lifted from the "art" in a Times Square souvenir shop. There are sweaters with trees, mountains, rivers and the lot. These can be found over at Betsey, Bunky & Nini, 237 East 53rd Street. A blue sweater with all that scenery thrown in goes for instance,  for $24.

                                                  A PERSONAL POP FASHION 
For great times, Giorgio di Sant'Angelo has done his own very personal kind of pop fashion. This amounts to a Red Baron kind of airplane (bright red on black) flying across all kinds of knitted things. Such as a long skirt, a flying jacket, a sweater. Lord & Taylor has these in their sixth floor Young New Yorkers sportswear, and the price is $40 for the skirt. $32 for the jacket and $24 for a sweater. In Bloomingdales sweater department on the third floor, Ritva of London advertises "Eat At Joes." Right on the front of a long-sleeved black wool sweater. This is $40. And as for those cracker boxes et al, well, they're being snapped up by young men and women alike. Made by a concern called Orphan Annie, presumably with the blessings of the Ritz and Lucky Strike people, they're about as "realistic" a package as a sweater can get. B. Altman has them on their sixth floor in either sleeveless or long-sleeved versions. The sleeveless is $11, while the long-sleeved is $15.

                                               ORPHAN ANNIE 'RITZ CRACKER' SWEATER, 1971.


                                                            ORPHAN ANNIE LABEL LOGO, 1971.


An original RITVA MAN 'FLASH FEARLESS' sweater designed by Mike Ross (1975) currently for sale here on Etsy.

                                                                  IMAGE CREDITS
Pop sweater illustration by Anne-Marie Barden for an original article by Mary Anne Crenshaw scanned by Sweet Jane from The New York Times, November 18th, 1971. Photo (1)&(4) Orphan Annie Ritz/Lucky Strike sweaters courtesy of expired listings Ebay. Photo (2)&(3) Orphan Annie sweater detail and logo courtesy of brinkdwellers on Etsy. Ritva Man sweater image courtesy of elliemayhems Etsy. 

                                           View the V&A Mike Ross RITVA MAN collection here.
                                         The RITVA Knitwear Collection 1966-1978 on Flickr here.
  View some more examples and read about the history of the RITVA label on the Wary Meyers blog here.

Saturday, 11 April 2015

Flare Up 1966

                                                                      IMAGE CREDIT

              Image scanned by Sweet Jane from the New Musical Express issue No.1002, March 25 1966.

Saturday, 4 April 2015

Join The Tea Set 1966

Following the Be-British campaigns here's the latest - 'Join the Tea Set' helped along by those ads from Paul Jones, Manfred Mann, the Ivy League and Unit 4 Plus 2. Join them in your own 'Join the Tea Set' Tea shirt (see our sketch) which is offered for 5s post free. The offer opens on may 1st 1966 and closes at the end of september and for 5s including postage and packing you will receive your Tea-shirt plus two transfers with the same motif as the shirts to use on hats, other sweaters etc. The address to send to is: Habenware Ltd. Hanover Mills, Guide Bridge, Ashton-under-Lyne, Lancashire.

                                                                IMAGE CREDIT
         Image scanned by Sweet Jane from 'Today's Raves' RAVE Magazine May 1966. Artist uncredited.

Monday, 30 March 2015

The New Boutique Bandits 1970

                                                                   IMAGE CREDITS
Images scanned by Sweet Jane from an original article by Priscilla Tucker for New York magazine May 4th 1970, illustrations by Barry Zaid. Further information about the artist can be found on the Barry Zaid Website here.

Saturday, 21 March 2015

Apply Yourself 1970

Applique, Paris stuck it, sewed it and poppered it all over everything in the spring collections. Feraud used Aztec beads in patches, Courreges stuck vinyl patches everywhere. Course, Britain's been applying herself for ages but in somewhat madder manner. We're wowing it and zapping it in a riot of colour. It's the ice-cream cone, the teddy bear and any other fun thing flung onto the funkiest of T-shirts! It's the last word snaked onto angora (pops off at the cleaners), even the beautiful embroidery all over cotton kaftans - so get stuck on - with applique!

Cover photo by Peter Mullet, navy long-sleeved vest £4.4s., red and green Mickey Mouse jacket £8. 8s. both from Mr Freedom, S.W.3. 

                        Shirt with sunrise applique £6. 6s., from Mr Freedom. belt, £3. 3s., Kleptomania.


                                Dress with applique hearts, by Louis Caring, £7.7s., from Miss Selfridge.

                                     Black leather belt with applique flowers  £5 from Kleptomania S.W.3.

   Beigey suede shoulder bag with coloured applique decoration £5.19s.6d. from The Westerner, S.W.3.

                        Vests with appliques, bear and sweetheart, £4 4s., from Mr Freedom, S.W.3.

                                                                  IMAGE CREDITS

All images & original text scanned by Sweet Jane from Petticoat magazine 4th April 1970. Original article by Sue Hone, photographs by Peter Mullet.

Monday, 16 March 2015

Loon Boots, Brothel Creepers, Bombers, Spacers & Slags 1974


                                                  IMAGE CREDITS

                        All images scanned by Sweet Jane from the New Musical Express, April 9th 1974.

Saturday, 7 March 2015

The Sant' Angelo Woman 1968

Beginning with his name Giorgio Imperratrice di Sant'Angelo di Lombardia e Ratti di Desio lives in a patchwork world. He has taken the amorphous world of accessories and filled it with loops of pink Dynel hair, lucite jewels, chains, ankle length coin necklaces. Ribbons snake up silken leggings. There are tiny silk wisps of bras, big bejeweled bibs, tassels and fringe in random profusion. Opulence overlaps opulence. Pattern poses on pattern, and all the festooned incongruities work. The Sant' Angelo decorated woman emerges in her chaps and gauntlets, trimmed with wooden bobbles and encrusted with embroidery. Giorgio's make-up (shown on these pages) colors girls bronze with white racoon-like masks of palis skin over the eyes and sometimes framing the lips. Together with the Amazonian Veruschka, Giorgio will soon debut his own make-up line. He always designs with the much crawled-over "Blow-Up" model in mind. What might seem clownish on others becomes perfectly plausible when stretched over the long expanse of Veruschka on the thick glossy pages of Vogue. Born in Florence the region where the medieval court pages wore tights with bi-coloured legs, Giorgio was enticed into fashion by the manicured hand of editor Diana Vreeland, who seized on his clear plastic jewelry for Vogue.

The clothes illustrated here by Giorgio himself are the ones presented at the Coty Awards show and will soon be available in Bonwit Teller's. They include suspenders and elongated necklaces perched above evening skirts, vests and tunics worn over radiant tights. Giorgio is award-prone. One award brought him to study ceramics with Picasso. Another brought him to working on animated cartons with Walt Disney. He came to accessories an "ex" of many worlds, including architecture, industrial design and marriage. Sant'Angelo may not go to any of the parties his competitors attend, but his jewelry is omnipresent. Last year it was large painted styrofoam shapes; pearls and stones caught and magnified in solid plastic gold plated cork. This year will be chains entwined into silk ropes, bunches of tassels on golden bracelets and medieval-ish belts. "I don't believe in chic women. I love imagination at work. People in the street are getting to do it quite well. My things have to be expensive at first. But I will find ways to get them mass produced and customers everywhere will be able to intermatch," Giorgio says. He will soon act and design for a movie with Veruschka which Franco Rubartelli, her photographer-boyfriend will film in India, Pakistan, Persia and Red China (if Mao gives him OK). The film will have no name, no ending. Giorgio himself has already avoided that particular fate. 

Left to right: Multicolor, multisnapped bolero with knit jeans, Superlong navel knotted wool scarf  over tiny silk jersey bra. Low slung black knit pants with colored pockets. Mini knit bra with stitching atop wisp of skirt in multiknit.

Suede suspenders with appliqued leather and wooden beads. The snood is held by matching suede band and fastened with tasseled ties.

Rose suede bib with colored leather swirls, encrusted with with stones. Slink of skirt in black velvet with side slit...Extended necklace of chain mail sprouting rhinestones and metal shapes. Chain mail stomacher belts layers of shaded gray organza. 

Inspired by the Sicilian shepherds who wrap cloth around their legs before they take to the mountains, Giorgio draped these ribbon wrapped silk jersey pants on Veruschka,who is not a Sicilian shepherd. Beige suede tunic top is embroidered with wooden beads and right zipped. 

The musketeer mood in bright suede vest infested with those leather swirls, wooden bobbles and nailheads again. All is repeated on the gauntlet gloves for Crescendo and the swagger boots.

                                                IMAGE CREDITS
All images & original text scanned by Sweet Jane from New York magazine, 30 September 1968. All illustrations by Giorgio di Sant'Angelo.